Current progress so far
Links to parts and information websites
Where I will be building my diablo
Where most of the important bits come from
The stuff it all bolts to
What makes it go
What makes it pretty
The cars nervous system
Where you sit
The gubberment bit
Who really cares?
Stuff that will not fit anywhere else
Other diablo replica websites


This is one of the rear wheel hubs as you get them from Parallel Designs.

The front surface of the wheels are finished nicely, the inside edges are a little rough however. This is the sort of thing you notice yourself as you assemble the car but is highly unlikely to be spotted else by anyone else.

Here the wheels are fitted with Pirelli P-Zero Asymetrico's. The alloys are 18 inch all round and at the moment neither the ride height or tracking has been set correctly so the drivers side wheel is too far inside the wing and rubs on full lock.

Adjustment of these parts is actually quite easy. There are two adjustments which can be wound in and out at the bottom to push the wheel in and out there, plus a third at the pivot point at the top. Using these adjusters, the wheel can be made to sit inside the well correctly. Movement forward or backward of the car is impossible so if the wheel is not centred, the whole body has to move.

The other thing that may need attention is the length of the studs on the front hubs. Not a lot of thread is being taken up by the supplied studs. This may require further investigation.

Heres the rear wheel in its aperture. At the moment the ride height is set wrong, so the wheel does not fit into the arch correctly. On top of this the entire body of the car is biased incorrectly with the passenger side running from front to back compared the drivers side. Its not too hard to fix the front as you have so much adjustment there, but the top mount of the wheel is fixed to the hub, with no adjustment.

The end result of this is that one of the rear wheels may be positioned more outwards than the other by as much as 5mm. Its difficult to see how I can resolve this as I cant move the body at the back either way to correct this. The reason being, that the aperture for the engine cover is already hard against the chassis rails, so to move the rear part of the body, the only thing to do would be a cut and shut. Not an appealing thought.

Once the tracking is set up, these problems become irrelevant. As long as the wheels are in the correct angular orientation to one another, minor differences in cartesian location are not important. If any of the wheels are stepped back, this can cause the steering to be off centre.

This is the spacer and elongated studs for the front wheel hubs to space the wheel correctly and to prevent the wheel from hitting the chassis when moved from lock to lock.

The studs are actually really easy to change. You can hammer the old ones out pretty easily once you have removed the brake disc carrier from the hub. You can press the new ones in, use a hammer to locate them or simply use a nut and a load of washers to pull the new studs in.

One of my new studs had a distorted end. I am not sure what caused this but it cleaned up using a die no problems at all.